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Thanks to Cascade Yarns for sponsoring the yarn for this pattern.

This is a crochet dress design using the same cable stitch as my last design – Julie Cardigan.

Julie Cardigan is still viewable on my blog till 1/20/2018.

Check out more dress pattern on my blog.

“Leaves” – Sleeveless Toddler Girl Dress Knitting Pattern

Size available 1, 2, 3, 4 years old.

Oat – Mommy and Me Family Matching Sweater – Free pattern on my blog

Size available toddler 3T & adult M.

This Julie Dress is the 2nd crochet pattern from Julie Series. The last one will be Julie Wrap Skirt & Cowl (coming Jan. 20 2019)

This dress is worked flat from bottom up in two pieces and then sew together. The neckline and armhole edgings are then worked after the dress is completed. The button design on one shoulder is optional. You can go with no button design or on both shoulders.

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Yarn: ( sport weighted yarn) Weight Category 2

(Thanks to Cascade Yarns for sponsoring the yarn for this pattern.)

Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash Sport – Lake Chelan Heather (859) (1.75oz/50g, 136 yds/125m)
Amount Required(approx.): size 1/2: 590 yds (5 balls); size 3/4: 791 yds (6 balls); size 5/6: 924 yds (7 balls); size 7/8: 1169 yds (9 balls); size 9/10: 1403 yds (11 balls); size XS: 1830 yds (14 balls); size S: 2054 yds (16 balls); size M: 2287 yds (17 balls); size L: 2627 yds (20 balls); size XL: 2976 yds (22 balls).

Tools and Notions:

3.25 mm (D) crochet hook
darning needle
stitch marker
⅝ inch (1.5 cm) buttons, amount required: 2


Finish Size:

Chest Circumference: size 1/2: 21 ½ inches; size 3/4: 24 inches; size 5/6: 25 ½ inches; size 7/8: 28 inches; size 9/10: 29 ½ inches; size XS: 32 inches; size S: 33 ½ inches; size M: 36 inches; size L: 40 inches; size XL: 44 inches.
Length to shoulder: size 1/2: 17 ½ inches; size 3/4: 21 inches; size 5/6: 23 inches; size 7/8: 26 ¾ inches; size 9/10: 30 inches; size XS: 34 ½ inches; size S: 36 ¾ inches; size M: 38 ¼ inches; size L: 40 ¼ inches; size XL: 42 ½ inches.

Gauge: (in 4″ x 4″/10cm x 10cm)

20 sts x 11 rows in double crochet.

Abbreviations:

bptc = back post treble crochet
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
dc = double crochet decrease
fptc = front post treble crochet
fm = front marker
patt = pattern
pm = place marker
rep = repeat
r&pm = remove and place marker
rs = right side
sc dec = single crochet decrease
sk = skip
sl st = slip stitch
st(s) = stitch(es)
tc = treble crochet
ws = wrong side

Pattern Notes:

  • Difficulty Level: Easy +
  • Sizing in pattern will be listed as 1/2 (3/4, 5/6, 7/8, 9/10) {XS, S, M, L} XL. When only one number is given, it applied to all sizes. You may circle all numbers pertaining to your size before beginning.
  • Fits chest circumference: 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) {30, 32, 34, 38} 42 inches with 1-2 inches positive ease. Pictured size 1/2 on a 2.5 year old with 1 ½ inches positive ease.
  • This dress is worked flat from bottom up in two pieces and then sew together. The neckline and armhole edgings are then worked after the dress is completed. The button design on one shoulder is optional. You can go with no button design or on both shoulders.

PATTERN

Center cable pattern: 18 sts with 4 rows repeat

Row 1: [sk 3, fptc 3, tc skipped 3], rep [] 2 more times
Row 2: [dc 3, bptc 3], rep [] 2 more times
Row 3: fptc 3, [sk 3, tc 3, fptc skipped 3], rep [] 1 more time, fptc 3
Row 4: bptc 3, [bptc 3, dc 3], rep [] 1 more times, bptc 3

Back:

With 3.25 mm (D) crochet hook, fdc 74 (84, 90, 100, 108) {120, 126, 134, 146} 158. Leave a long tail for sewing the side seams.

Row 1(RS): ch 2 (count as 1st dc), sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc 22 (27, 30, 35, 39) {45, 48, 52, 58} 64, dc 1 (place marker in this st), [sk 3, fptc 3, tc skipped 3], rep [] 2 more times (row 1 of cable pattern), dc 1 (place marker in this st), dc to last 5 st, sk 2, fptc 2, tc skipped 2, dc 1.
Row 2: ch 2 (count as 1st dc), dc 2, bptc 2, dc to marker stitch (remove and place marker=r&pm), [dc 3, bptc 3], rep [] 2 more times (row 2 of cable pattern), dc 1 (r&pm), dc to last 5 sts, bptc 2, dc 3.
Row 3: ch 2 (count as 1st dc), sk 2, dc 2, fptc skipped 2, dc to marker stitch (r&pm), [fptc 3, [sk 3, tc 3, fptc skipped 3], rep [] 1 more time, fptc 3 (row 3 of cable pattern), dc 1 (r&pm), dc to last 5 st, sk 2, fptc 2, tc skipped 2, dc 1.
Row 4 (decrease row): ch 2 (count as 1st dc), dc 2, bptc 2, dc dec, dc to marker stitch (remove and place marker=r&pm), bptc 3, [bptc 3, dc 3], rep [] 1 more times, bptc 3 (row 4 of cable pattern), dc 1 (r&pm), dc to last 7 sts, dc dec, bptc 2, dc 3.

Rep row 1- row 4: 8 (10, 11, 13, 15) {18, 19, 20, 21} 22 more times.

Measures from bottom of foundation row to current row approx: 13.25 (16, 17.5, 20.25, 23,25) {27.5, 29, 30.25, 31.75} 33.25 inches.

58 (64, 68, 74, 78) {84, 88, 94, 104} 114 sts

Shape armhole

Row 1(RS): turn, sl st into 8th (8th, 9th, 9th, 9th){9th, 7th, 7th, 8th} 10th st of row, ch 2 (count as 1st dc), dc dec, patt to last 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) {11, 9, 9, 10} 12 sts, dc dec, dc in next. 42 (48, 50, 56, 60) {66, 74, 80, 88} 94 sts,
Row 2: ch 2 (count as 1st dc), turn, dc dec, patt to last 3 sts, de dec, dc in last. 40 (46, 48, 54, 58) {64, 72, 78, 86} 92 sts
Rep row 2: 0 (2, 2, 4, 4) {2, 2, 2, 4} 6 more times. 40 (42, 44, 46, 50) {60, 68, 74, 78} 80 sts.**
Next row: ch 2 (count as 1st dc), turn, patt to end.
Rep last row (continue straight in pattern): 7 (7, 9, 9, 9) {13, 15, 15, 15} 15 more times.
Or until back measures from row 1 of armhole shaping approx.3.5 (4.25, 5, 5.75, 5.75) {6.5, 7.25, 7.25, 8} 8.5 inches.

Ending with a WS row worked last.

Shape back neckline

Right shoulder

Row 1(RS): ch 2 (count as 1st dc), turn, dc 4 (4, 4, 4, 4) {5, 6, 7, 7} 7, dc dec, dc 1. 7 (7, 7, 7, 7) {8, 9, 10, 10} 10 sts
Row 2: ch 2 (count as 1st dc), turn, dc dec, dc to end. 6 (6, 6, 6, 6) {7, 8, 9, 9} 9 sts
Fasten off and break yarn.

Left shoulder

With RS facing, rejoin yarn at 7th (7th, 7th, 7th, 7th) {8th, 9th, 10th, 10th} 10th st count from left.
Row 1(RS): ch 2 (count as 1st dc), dc dec, dc to end. 7 (7, 7, 7, 7) {8, 9, 10, 10} 10 sts
Row 2: ch 2 (count as 1st dc), turn, dc 3 (3, 3, 3, 3){4, 5, 6, 6} 6, dc dec, dc 1. 6 (6, 6, 6, 6) {7, 8, 9, 9} 9 sts
Fasten off and break yarn.

Front

Work as given for back to **

Next row: ch 2 (count as 1st dc), turn, patt to end.
Rep last row (continue straight in pattern): 1 (3, 3, 3, 3) {3, 5, 5, 5} 7 more times.
Or until back measures from row 1 of armhole shaping approx.1.5 (2, 2, 2, 2) {2, 2.75, 2.75, 2.75} 3.5 inches.
Ending with a WS row worked last.

Shape front neckline

Left shoulder

Row 1(RS): ch 2 (count as 1st dc), turn, dc 6 (6, 6, 6, 6) {9, 10, 11, 11} 11, dc dec, dc 1. 9 (9, 9, 9, 9) {12, 13, 14, 14} 14 sts
Row 2: ch 2 (count as 1st dc), turn, dc dec, dc to end. 8 (8, 8, 8, 8) {11, 12, 13, 13} 13 sts
Row 3: ch 2 (count as 1st dc), turn, dc to last 3 sts, dc dec, dc 1. 7 (7, 7, 7, 7) {10, 11, 12, 12} 12 sts
Row 4: ch 2 (count as 1st dc), turn, dc dec, dc to end. 6 (6, 6, 6, 6) {9, 10, 11, 11} 11 sts
Rep row 3 – row 4: 0 (0, 0, 0, 0) {1, 1, 1, 1} 1 more times. 6 (6, 6, 6, 6) {7, 8, 9, 9} 9 sts
Next row: ch 2 (count as 1st dc), turn, dc to end.
Rep last row (continue straight in pattern) until front measures same as back to shoulder, ending with a WS row worked last.
Fasten off and break yarn.

Right shoulder

With RS facing, rejoin yarn at 10th (10th, 10th, 10th, 10th) {13th, 14th, 15th, 15th} 15th st count from left.

Row 1(RS): ch 2 (count as 1st dc), dc dec, dc to end. 9 (9, 9, 9, 9) {12, 13, 14, 14} 14 sts
Row 2: ch 2 (count as 1st dc), turn, dc to last 3 sts, dc dec, dc 1. 8 (8, 8, 8, 8) {11, 12, 13, 13} 13 sts
Rep row 1 – row 2: 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) {2, 2, 2, 2} 2, more times.  6 (6, 6, 6, 6) {7, 8, 9, 9} 9 sts
Next row: ch 2 (count as 1st dc), turn, dc to end.
Rep last row (continue straight in pattern) until front measures same as back to shoulder, ending with a WS row worked last.
Fasten off and break yarn.

Sew the side seams together and shoulder seam(s) together.

Neckline Edging  (Moss Stitch)

With RS facing, starting from the front open shoulder side (If you would like no button option, starting from either side of shoulder seam), rejoin yarn. Ch 1 (does not count as 1st sc), sc in same st, work ch 1, sk 1, sc 1 all along the neckline to the back shoulder side (approx. ch 1, sk 1, sc 1 in each row). Place 4 removable markers as shown in picture.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), turn, sc in same, [*sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to marker stitch, work sc dec in next 2 ch-1 sp, ch 1], rep [] 3 more times, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to end, sc in last ch-1 sp, sc in last st.
Row 2: Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), turn, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last st, sc in last st.
Rep row 1 and row 2: 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) {2, 2, 2, 2} 2 more times.
Next row (WS): Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), turn, sc in same, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in last st.

Armhole Edging (closed shoulder without button)  (Moss Stitch)

With RS facing, starting from underarm, rejoin yarn. ch 1 (does not count as 1st sc), sc in same st, work ch 1, sk 1, sc 1 all along the arm hole edging, ch 1, join with first sc with sl st.
Round 1: Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), sc in same, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to under arm, work sc dec in next 2 ch-1 sp, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * around, sc in last ch-1 sp, join with first sc with sl st.
Round 2: Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), sc in same, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * around, join with first sc with sl st.
Rep round 1 and round 2: 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) {2, 2, 2, 2} 2 more times.
Next round: rep round 1.

Armhole Edging (open shoulder with buttons)  (Moss Stitch)

With RS facing, starting from the back open shoulder side (If you would like no button option, starting from either side of shoulder seam), rejoin yarn. Ch 1 (does not count as 1st sc), sc in same st, work ch 1, sk 1, sc 1 all along the neckline to the front shoulder side (approx. ch 1, sk 1, sc 1 in each row).
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1(does not count as 1
st sc), turn, sc in same, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to underarm, work sc dec in next 2 ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to end, sc in last ch-1 sp, sc in last st.
Row 2: Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), turn, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last st, sc in last st.
Rep row 1 and row 2: 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) {2, 2, 2, 2} 2 more times.
Next row (WS): Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), turn, sc in same, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in last st.

Shoulder Button Band (Moss Stitch)

With RS facing, starting from the most outside row of armhole edging, Ch 1 (does not count as 1st sc), sc in same st, work ch 1, sk 1, sc 1 all along the shoulder edge to the most out side row of neckline edging.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), turn, sc in same, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in last st.
Row 2: Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), turn, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last st, sc in last st.
Rep row 1 and row 2: 1 more times.
Next row (WS): Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), turn, sc in same, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in last st.

Shoulder Buttonhole Band (Moss Stitch)

With RS facing, starting from the most outside row of neckline edging, Ch 1 (does not count as 1st sc), sc in same st, work ch 1, sk 1, sc 1 all along the shoulder edge to the most out side row of armhole edging.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), turn, sc in same, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in last st.
Row 2: Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), turn, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last st, sc in last st.
Row 3 (buttonhole row): Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), turn, sc in same, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk 3, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last 8 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk 3, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in last st.
Row 4: Ch (does not count as 1st sc), turn, sc in same, ch 1, sc in next ch 1, sp, ch 1, work (sc 1, ch 1, sc 1) in next ch-3 sp,  ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last 8 sts, ch 1, work (sc 1, ch 1, sc 1) in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in last st.
Row 5: Ch 1(does not count as 1st sc), turn, sc in same, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in last st.

Finishing

Weave in all ends.
Gently blocking to approx. finished measurements.
Sew on the buttons, using the buttonhole for placement.

Small accessories you can make using scrap piece of yarn.

Bow:

Round 1: ch 20,  join to the first st, make the sure the chain is not twisted.
Round 2: ch 1, sc in each ch around.
Round 3: ch 1, sc back loop only in each sc around.
Rep round 3: 6 more times.

Leave a long tail, wrap around the bow center several rounds. Secure yarn and weave in ends.

Hot glue on the top surface of metal hair clip (1 ⅝ inches/40mm long), wrap yarn around the top piece of hair clip. Hot glue bow onto hair clip.

 

 

Pom-pom:

I use 1 ⅜ inch diameter pom-pom maker.

Use the same method, hot glue onto the hair clip.

 

You can also make 2 pom-pom and tie together onto a hair tie.


Enjoy!

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Any Question or Suggestion? Contact me at warmlinx@gmail.com. Thank you!


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